For AW14, Alexander McQueen haunted Soho’s Welsh Church, a former nightclub. The space filled with the sound of the Bauhaus track “Bela Lugosi's Dead” – the club scene soundtrack from David Bowie eighties vampire film The Hunger – disconcerting and trippy, to which gaunt and hollow eyed models appeared with black feathers tangled in matted hair.
Hot sci-fi geeks saw days spent at sci-fi conventions resurface in alien-skin quilting and hyper tech fabrics at James Long. Super slick and hyper real surfaces: interweaved blue and black satin creating a perforated texture, glossy pony skin and incredible otherworldly surfaces formed by tightly quilted and ruched fabric, bobbling and ballooning over arms and torsos as trippy love song “Galactic Lover”, composed by Is Tropical’s Simon Milner and feat. Lea Lea, drifted down the runway. Listen to it below, exclusively on Dazed.
Christopher Shannon shook things up with his “melancholy and vibrant” exploration into the birth of the tracksuit in the 70s. “I was listening to lots of old Adrian Sherwood, sort of like new-age dub, I was like ‘Oh, my God. I’m so into this sound, this is what the show should look like,” he told us. Models all emerged with dripping wet hair pulled over their faces as 00's club track “Out of Your Mind” by True Steppers feat. Victoria Beckham boomed.
Streetwear with a very sexualised undercurrent presented itself at Astrid Andersen. Satin finishes glided off the limbs of muscled models, and metallic baby blue Sophie Hallette lace countered the heavy American hip hop culture riffs as Missy Elliott’s ‘Hot Boyz’ soundtracks over the top, “You a hot boy, a rock boy. A fun toy, tote a Glock boy”
A grime-heavy show of subtle tailored elements and concise concepts of crisp white and pin stripe shirts, punctuated by black buttons. NASIR MAZHAR printed tape looped around limbs and across the torso. It branded the top of satin boxer fighter shorts, and the hardware straps of backpacks and harnesses, all stomped out to an epic mash-up of Darq E Freaker tracks including, “666 Sauna”, “Butterscotch”, “Girls”, “Tempest” and “Honey”.