From skinheads vs rudeboys to Jay Z vs MJ, the designers share the influences behind their upcoming show
Ahead of their AW14 show, father and son duo Casely-Hayford share a moodboard created for their collection and explain the references, thoughts and ideals behind each image:
60s SKINHEADS VS. 00s RUDEBOYS
"This was really the starting point for the collection. Looking at each generation and the prominent British youth sub-cultures that had come to define each one, we wanted to create a visual language for the next one... An amalgamation of sub-culture signifiers from the past as well as concepts and codes that feel relevant for moving forward for the next generation."
DE STILJL MOVEMENT VS. AMERICAN FOOTBALL STRIPES
"Referencing the De Stijl movement fed our interest in graphic minimalism, a nod to where we feel London street culture is moving. The bold horizontal and vertical lines of De Stijl architecture and paintings echoes the design details on a lot of sportswear currently worn by a large segment of British youth. We were interested in colliding the worlds of this spartan art movement with the clean lines of modern sportswear."
JAY-Z VS. MJ
"We came across these images of Michael Jackson and Jay-Z at the beginning of the season. Both captured our interest in graphic minimalism whilst holding down strong sportswear looks... it's pretty hard to find images of MJ in oversized sportswear. The visuals for Jay-Z's 'Classic Gangster' mixtape cover is like the Hip-Hop version of the White Stripes' De Stijl album cover."
CORNELIA PARKER VS. JUDY BLAME
"Both creatives have always worked from found objects. In using our AW14 collection to create a uniform/ identity for this next-generation's missing youth cult, we were interested in the purposeful disparity of a lot of the references points of Generation Y and wanted to reflect that in our collection statement. The spartan vs The tactile. For tactile accessories who else could we turn to but Judy Blame to juxtapose the clean lines of De Stijl and the sportswear references. Cornelia Parker's 'anti mass' sculpture was a direct reference for our burnt wood print, and echoed similarities to Judy's jewellery both in spirit and energy through resurrection and reconfiguration."
GARY BUSHELL's 'FEELING SO BRAVE... YOU CAN'T BE STOPPED WHEN YOU'RE YOUNG'
"Gary Bushell's quote, paraphrased from lyrics by The Jam, captures the spirit of our music choice for the show and the power and momentum that can be gained through cultures of resistance. We looked a lot at theorist Dick Hebdige and the idea that creating an agitation in society forces movement through it's sheer existence and pushes things forward. Conformity stifles creativity. AW14 looks at this message for the next generation and it's missing defining youth sub-culture."
DRENGE vs. ROYAL BLOOD
"Drenge and Royal Blood were two of the bands we were listening to in the studio while designing the collection. Both two piece bands, they're from Sheffield and Brighton respectively. They definitely provided a lot of the raw energy that we wanted to capture with their abrasive sounds."
Casely-Hayford shared this documentary clip of Dick Hebdige as their YouTube clip of AW14: