The release of Mademoiselle C prompted a proper countdown of the best of the lesser-known fashion documentaries – Wim Wenders's Yohji Yamamoto biopic Notebook on Cities and Clothes and Girl Model were just a few that made the cut. Fashion films have hit the mainstream, but have you seen these cult docs?
With an exclusive first look at the launch of Hedi Slimane's Saint Laurent Music Project – a first for the house's new direction – this shocked and shook the dust off a priggish fashion audience. Counterculture superstars Courtney Love, Marilyn Manson, Kim Gordon and Ariel Pink all sent waves with Slimane's new music manifesto. Saint Laurent Paris was back, and the gun was loaded.
Fully embracing our November issue's Dark Arts theme, Dazed looked back over fashion’s most horrifying moments. From Galliano to Rodarte, Gareth Pugh to McQueen; the underworld has reared its head season after season, breaking serene aesthetics and challenging commercial trends. Gothic decadence, bodily functions and slaughterhouse brutalism are just a few of the stimuli that came to form fashion's darkest fantasies that paraded down the runway.
Corinne Day's images of struggling models and friends in her apartment parted crowds for a new photographic aesthetic in the early 90s, coinciding with grunge. Three years after her death, her husband Mark Szaszy shares some personal memories of his wife's early work – sitting on a sofa covered in flour dressed only in knickers, Szasy shines a light on the late photographer's buoyant sense of humour.
"Trick or treat"? Debuting Hedi Slimane’s first feature film for Saint Laurent, soundtracked by Clementine Creevy from Cherry Glazeer, proved the latter. Based on his Ballerina line, the video shows a lone dancer, model Lida Fox, draped in flannel, leather and his Ballerina shoe, dancing in a monochrome warehouse. “Cali grunge becomes timeless”, and a new Saint Laurent dialogue was born.
Back in September, Dazed travelled to New York to find out what shooting the legendary Pirelli calendar is really like alongside legendary photographers Peter Lindbergh and Patrick Demarchelier. Flitting between an Altlantic Beach where six of the world’s hottest Pirelli veterans “pulse together like a gorgeous supermodel jellyfish” and a Chelsea studio, the bets on Pirelli’s 50th edition being one of the most iconic yet were right on target.
After Calvin Klein brought sexy to the 90s through a half-naked Kate Moss, one camp went wild whilst the other (read: The American Family Association), launched a letter-writing campaign threatening retailers with boycotting the label. Fast forward to 2004 when Tom Ford shaved his Gucci logo into the pubic hair of his models and nobody even winced. Dazed looks at how the 90s well and truly changed Generation X’s attitude to hopping on the good foot and doing the bad thing.
Following Ms Moss’ Special Recognition win at the BFAs, we looked at her top ten early moments that perhaps explain 25 years at the top of the game. From the Super Supermodel 90s, to that relationship with J. Depp, a cuppa and fag with David Bailey and the '92 Marky Mark CK spectacular, you wanna see these; and no, we’re not just talking about her four Dazed covers.
Does the major shift in the fashion's big leagues affect their first collection? Not for Alexander Wang, who, after replacing Nicolas Ghesquière, surprised the front row with a glorious homage to Cristobal Balenciaga's roots in cracked marble. When he spoke to Dazed, Wang let us know that he was keeping his focus very much on the brand's heritage, saying, "Forever and always I’ll remember that the name on the door is Balenciaga. I think it’s great to do something that is completely another side of what I do."
Back in September we were given unprecedented access to pioneering make-up artist Inge Grognard’s archive through candid images taken by her husband Ronald Stoops. In a new interview, she revealed how she began collaborating with the Antwerp Six – including the infamous Martin Margiela – and helped to shape the anti-fashion aesthetic of Belgium's new wave.