Dazed Overdose Milan Roundup Part 2

Robbie Spencer runs through the Milan menswear shows picking his highlights.

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D&G's decadent A/W09 collection was a refreshing break from the minimal black uniform attire that seems to be prominent at the menswear shows in Milan, In Homage to Oscar Wilde, D&G saluted the dandy style of the late Victorian era, with foppish suiting, and feminine fabrics cut in masculine shapes, the collection also featured the most amazing tapestry like, Caravaggio-inspired prints on suits and knitwear.

Trussardi’s A/W09 collection experimented with gold zips on suiting and coats and featured tiered jackets and oversized metallic holdalls.

Botega Veneta’s A/W09 collection was a flawless combination of their characteristic natural palette and signature focus on luxury and quality including weaved holdalls, wool suiting in tan, creams and sand colors.

Gianfranco Ferre A/W09 collection was a minimal modern affair, having a heavy focus on luxury cuts and new takes on men’s classics, over coats and suit jackets were slime fit with futuristic Pierre Cardin inspired winged shoulders.

Vivienne Westwood’s A/W09 collection saluted Ziggy stardust with via gardener chic with stretchy rainbow metallic knits, slashed up long johns, floral pinafores and gardening sheers.

A welcome distraction from the insanely load music played during the Versace A/W09 show was the hypnotizing footage above our heads of melting ice caps, used as inspiration for the Versace palette in their collection. It consisted of cobalt blue knits and white suits, as well as baby blues and navy emulating the harsh, untamable reality of nature and the beauty of ice.

Milan’s highlight, Prada, was pioneering this an attire for survival, emasculating menswear and wearing clothes as amour. The use of leather, denim, and studding, were examples of harsh tough materials applied in beautiful intricate ways on shoes and paneled jeans. At the show there was a spoken word cyber lift style-voiceover, making you feel like you were about to go into space. Or embark on a time traveling journey to the year 2165.

Moncler and Thom Browne, one of the most exciting collaborations to come out of Milan this season, Thom has collaborated with Moncler to create a capsule menswear collection for A/W09 that experiments with new fabrics and provides innovative and signature takes on the classic Moncler puffa jacket styles.

With the Specials song "Ghost Town: ringing through your ears and the row of Victorian street lamps running the course of the Alexander McQueen A/W09 runway, there was an uncomfortably creepy atmosphere brewing. Coming straight out off the late Victorian East End crossed over with the gang land of early twentieth century New York, models were time warped into burley bruisers and gangsters with boxing gloves and murderous alter ego, decked out in heavy over coats, trilbies and walking kanes. This was broken up by work wear leather aprons to conjure a sense of macabre goings on, resulting in Jack the Ripper style mass murdering models.

In the Giuliano Fujiwara A/W09 collection, the sunglasses were again a real triumph with the rippled plastic frames and individual flowers wrapping around each lens. The shoes; clumpy army style boots were also a highlight, and the tiered grey pebble dash colored suiting strengthened Fujiwara's futuristic mission. In a black and grey charcoal palette with bursts of white and cream, this collection has contributed to the overall trend beginning to emerge out of the season, reflecting the current social climate a merger of uniformed futurism.
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