From the circus swinging and Estonian death metal of Rick Owens' dramatic show to the exploration of functional fashion by Dior, this week in Paris was a honey-pot of catwalk drama. Highlights included Paul Smith's hedonistic 70s colours and psychotropic prints, and Raf Simons's kinetic sculptures and industrial looks. Swing through six seconds of each of the highlights below.
"‘Vicious’ was the title of Rick Owens’ latest offering – an appropriate term considering his show opened to the uproar of an Estonian death metal band. As the sounds reverberated through the show space – an industrial sports hall in Paris - it soon became clear that this wasn’t just background noise for Owens, but all part of the performance."
"The centrepiece at yesterday’s Dior Homme – a large-scale mirrored maze – explored similar ideas concerning functionality, but for Kris Van Assche it was also an object of beauty. As the models walked in and out of the structure, their reflection was repeated, distorted and projected out towards the audience."
"This season Paul Smith looked back to the hedonistic era of the 1970s and produced a collection of acid tones and trippy prints. It began with a series of tailored peach jackets before the collection exploded into a mass of fuchsias and bold yellows."
"Effortless, cool and chic, each model in the Hermes SS14 show breezed the runway as if it were one of the crisp cobblestone streets outside."
"The show opened in silence. The first few looks consisted of frayed chiffon tops, tailcoats and ruched trousers – all in a uniform code of black. Then came a series of chaotic prints worn underneath suede vests, which fastened at the back like some sort of dominatrix wear."
A closer look at Kim Jones's American pop culture inspired print. She showcased a striking collection that embraced the iconography of classic sportswear, whilst infusing it with luxury tailoring.
"It felt like she was toying with the idea of spring – or at least her interpretation of it. A dark floral print ran down the front of jackets and the side of trousers – at first reminiscent of cherry blossom, before eventually developing into a bolder and more intricate design, suggestive of calligraphy."
"Against the backdrop of Alexander Calder’s kinetic sculptures and an installation by Jean Prouvé, Raf took over the Le Bourget Gagosian Gallery, situated in an industrialised suburb outside of Paris. 'We were thinking about product and industrialisation,' he told me after the show. 'Everything we use, everything we swallow…. it’s getting more and more man-made and more and more artificial.'"
"A fusion of military references and tailoring emerged on the Valentino runway this season. Safari shades of sandy beige were contrasted against a sea of navy two-piece suits and flickers of burgundy and khaki."
"Nothing is ever as it seems with Walter Van Beirendonck. Fashion’s own enfant terrible has been distorting menswear since the early eighties and yesterday’s show at The Place de l'Opéra was no different. Classic suits were covered with garish prints, geometric patterns and 2-D cut-outs, which sprung out from the body like some sort of children’s pop up book."
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