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Comme des Garçons Homme Plus Menswear SS14

Rei Kawakubo tells her own story of deconstruction and rebellion as she reinterprets the her own archive

Yesterday’s Comme des Garçons show served as a reminder of all that Rei Kawakubo has pioneered in fashion. It made me think back to her Parisian debut in 1981, where she presented a series of tattered garments riddled with holes in a hotel room to 100 people. Her collection was ridiculed as being “Hiroshima chic” – but that was then and a lot has changed.

The show opened in silence. The first few looks consisted of frayed chiffon tops, tailcoats and ruched trousers – all in a uniform code of black. Then came a series of chaotic prints worn underneath suede vests, which fastened at the back like some sort of dominatrix wear. The rest of the collection played our like a beautiful repertoire of Kawakubo’s greatest hits, there were patchwork garments, tartan jackets with deconstructed shoulders and ruffled shirts – each design an inherent part of the Comme des Garçons code. The show closed with a series of printed headscarves worn with classic Comme shirts.

Yesterday felt very much like a Comme des Garçons retrospective, but retold and reworked so that it was as rebellious and as of the moment as it was in 1981. 

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