Juun.J has previously labelled himself as a deconstructionist of menswear classics. This season, he took on American sportswear.
It seems the actions on the designer’s mind for SS14 were inflate, deflate; relax, then refine. Switching back between voluminous proportions and figure-skimming silhouettes, the collection proved to be an exercise in volume, structure and cut.
A mainstay feature were thigh-grazing shorts, paired with oversized raglan jumpers and tricot shirts tucked in at the waist, and shown in colours of pure white, cream, ink blue marble print and cobalt blue. With their slightly awkward silhouettes and strictly middle-parted hair, Juun J’s men resembled a half jock/half nerd hybrid.
But as if this character grew from high school youngster to grown man, the raglan jumpers soon changed to oversized button up shirts with kimono-like sleeves, the colours progressed to midnight blue and black, and the materials to leather and satin. Trousers grew in length and featured drawstring waists, while pinstripes on single-breasted blazers and cocoon coats presented a more mature aspect to the collection.
However, in the end, a parade of oversized, sheer white tricots during the finale brought the message back home to the playing field.