From the peep show atmosphere of Jonathan Saunders's Soho-inspired presentation to the anti-concept mentality of Nasir Mazhar's streetwear, Spring/Summer '14 was full of diverse experiments for menswear. Alexander McQueen's intricate grungy lace was a highlight as were the trippy, choppy colours that made up Craig Green's psychedelic dreamworld. Celebrating the dynamics of the season, we've put together some short clips of the shows, including a sneak peek into the secret sanctum that is Shaun Samson's studio:
"Amongst the piles of decaying bricks and discoloured pillars, the sounds of swarming insects filled the air as Sarah Burton cast a magical and mysterious tone over yet another strong menswear collection. It was a severely monochromatic collection and one that focused on fine details and dark prints."
"This season felt like a big progression for Samson. His previously heavy, oversized streetwear had developed into something rather feminine and quite delicate. Thick felt was replaced with silk organza and glitter covered knitwear, whilst his at times monochromatic colour palette was replaced with a series of light pinks, greys and a metallic silver."
"Shaun Samson’s studio feels very grown up, especially for a designer whose work explores teenage rebellion and at times, adolescent extremes. However, once you take a closer look around, you begin to find the objects that pay homage to his teenage years - the branded skateboards that he sent down the runway and the boy-ish oversized garments he has hanging on his rails."
"Craig Green sent a tribe of faceless, psychedelic acid print covered sculptures down the runway and I couldn’t help but breathe a sigh of relief. Someone had finally done it. Craig had made the biggest possible statement about the underlying issues in British menswear."
"Upon entering Jonathan Saunders’s menswear presentation, you couldn’t help but feel that you had walked into a peep show in Soho. Models were displayed under hazy red lights against a backdrop of red vinyl curtains as if taken straight from a sex shop. But there was nothing seedy about it all - instead giving off a somewhat suspicious mood."
"Taking reference from the birth of the Super club scene in Liverpool and Manchester, Shannon brought an ‘anything-goes’ mentality to the collection. Models appeared on the runway with glitter hair, wearing florescent rubber and PVC garments. This collection was a bold move for Shannon."
"As James Long sent his gang of models down the runway, I couldn’t help but think back to the reference wall in his studio. It was a strange mix of images from a young Leonardo Dicaprio, to Hell Angels bikers and sartorial cyclists in Florence. As the first few looks appeared on the runway, it all began to make sense - it was all about re-contextualization this season."
"This season saw Nasir refine his own DIY aesthetic and reaffirm his position as one of London’s true visionaries. The show opened to the sounds of a pirate radio station, something he hinted at the week before when he told me, 'If you’re talking about the attitude of the music, I suppose it is really rebellious, like it's illegal.'"