Yesterday, J.W. Anderson continued his quest to distort and redefine the gender roles associated with menswear. Unlike last season’s cropped tops and mini lengths – this collection was an exercise in proportion, silhouettes and control. The opening looks consisted of long sculptural black tunics, which wrapped their way around the body into a high neckline. Then came the sheer mesh tops with cut-out appliqués, wide-legged trousers and halter neck tops with floral detailing – a throw back to last season’s feminine details. By far, the strongest moments in the collection was when Anderson worked both in and out of sync with the body. His sculptural tunics extended out at the shoulder and at the arm to form a tight sleeve that bound the body together, showcasing his ability to sculpt the proportions of the male body with very feminine silhouettes.
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