Ahead of the launch of this season's London Collections: Men, Dazed (in association with The BFC) commissioned a series of new films on London’s emerging designers. Up first was CSM-graduated designer Nicomede Talavera who since his first capsule collection in October 2009, has honed in on his distinctive aesthetic, which fuses rich details, restructured tailoring and unusual fabrics. Inspired by the youth of his East London surroundings, functional sportswear and minimalism: "I don't like to over-conceptualise fashion and always see my designs being worn with an ease and effortlessness." Collaborating with director Can Evgin, the film entitled Boys of Edfu, follows an unearthly trio in their heady surroundings of East End culture with an ethereal mysticism.
Dazed Digital: Tell us about the inspiration for AW13?
Nicomede Talavera: For my MA collection, the starting inspiration was Muslim youth around East London, and the way they mix cultural dress with streetwear. Growing up in Hounslow, I have always been inspired by this combination of different dress and how layers, extended lengths and minimal shapes can be worn in an effortless and masculine way that doesn't conform to the stereotypical Westernised male silhouette. I combined this with research into the works of Lucio Fontana and Elsworth Kelly to execute the layers and colour blocking in a refined way. All of the fabric I used was corduroy as it is a classic menswear fabric but I used it in more of a minimal way - I really liked how it added a subtle texture to the overall silhouette.
DD: Can, how easy was it to bring Nicomede’s aesthetic to life on film, and how important is it to champion new talent via the moving image?
Can Evgin: It's true that in the age of the internet and social media, film is becoming a popular alternative to photography for campaigns. Both film and photography have their unique strengths and can emphasise different aspects of any collection. It is important for all designers, especially young talent, to use the medium most true to the spirit of their collection.
For Nicomeda's AW13 collection, which was inspired by east London boys and is quite structural in its form, it was almost necessary to shoot it in film and capture the dreamy movement of his large canvas-like surfaces, the changing silhouettes, and to reflect the raw energy of the collection.
DD: Nicomede, how important is the mix of fashion and film to you as an emerging designer?
NT: I had always wanted to create a 'fashion film' for one of my collections but had never had the opportunity to work with the right team to execute it properly. When Dazed got in touch about this project I thought it was the perfect time to take my work and present it in a different context. I didn't shoot a look book for my MA collection, so this is the first time it has been seen away from the runway shots.
I see the use of film in fashion as another way of building a story to explore your brand's point of view and engage with an audience. Depending on which approach you take you are able to add an extra dimension to the designs or use abstraction to portray a mood.
As I build my brand and begin to show collections seasonally from SS14, I see fashion film becoming a big part of the way I put across my collection each season in tandem with the traditional media of looks, books and photoshoots.
DD: Can you give us a little teaser on what to expect for SS14?
NT: Minimalism, Dancehall, Texture and Businesswear!
Follow Can Evgin on Twitter here @cev