There’s nothing saccharine about this season at all. Flowers have been crushed, pinks have been hardened and there’s an oily slickness coating the surface. Viktor & Rolf’s therefore bows were appropriately doused in black, sometimes in leather, sometimes jutting out haphazardly at the side of a jacket. They were sculptural rather than sweet. Rips and tears weren’t DIY accidents but picked out with lace, chiffon and intricate fraying techniques. Their signature white shirt peppered with holes, asymmetric ruffles and lace inserts. Anything that remotely resembles pretty is stopped short with a deliberate flaw.