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Esther Heesch at NextPhotography Jacques Habbah

Felipe Oliveira Baptista AW13

First, start with the fabric: the Portuguese talent goes back to his roots

Felipe Oliveira Baptista was looking back to his Portuguese roots in lieu of preparing for an exhibition about the creative process for the Museum of Fashion and Design of Lisbon. That sounds deeply analytical. No wonder Baptista dug through his influences and found appeal in the work of Portuguese creative greats – Helena Almeida and Fernando Pessoa. Poetry and classicism ruled here as Baptista refined his shapes into sharp A-line skirts and rigorously cut trench coats, aided by the techno fabric mixes that he worked on with some forward-thinking textile companies (isn’t it nice to credit the fabric peeps behind the scenes?). Wool made to drape like organza, double woven nylon and lurex, and bonded leather and suede. These hybrids looked most effective when he tamed wild photographic prints of wolves, eagles, and coyotes into shimmering stiffened gowns that seemed to glide down the runway.

Models pictured: Grace Hartzel-@Gracie2477, Ella Kandyba-@EllaKandyba, Kate Kondas-@KateKondas