A seductive homage to independent female spirit
'Garçonne' was chosen as the title for Giorgio Armani's latest offering. It was once a term that was heavily associated with scandal, serving as the title of Victor Margueritte's 1922 novel, which told the story of a young woman who decided to live sexually free and promiscuous life. It was a work that probed a new outlook on gender roles, and what's more, most of the novel's four film adaptations were banned by the film association. Although Armani wasn't offering scandal this season, the collection was a homage to the independent spirit, and to a new way of interpreting femininity.
It was a collection that was first shaped by a boyish androgyny. There were tapered trousers, long black velvet skirts, and some cropped grey jackets. Each look was held together by the same simple lines, most notably reinforced by a series of black strapped looks that came across the front of the body, Armani's new take on a masculine waistcoat.
Much like his Emporio show, the last few looks became a high point for the collection, and played out this androgynous sexuality that the title of the show came to be associated with. Models appeared with skin on show, wearing silver beaded tops or small straps that just barely covered the chest. But Armani really gave us something to think about with his final look, a look that would close the show, and end Milan fashion week. When his final model emerged, wearing a silver chain-mail top held together by thick velvet straps that covered her nipples, it was almost a reference to Charlotte Rampling's scene of seduction in the 1974 ''The Night Porter.' Through that final look Armani gave us an homage to the independent female spirit – and a very seductive one at that.
Hair: Franco Gobbi
Makeup: Linda Cantello
Models pictured: Catherine McNeil-@MeowcatMccat, Iris van Berne-@irisvberne, Melissa Tammerijn-@miss_melissa_T, Nastya Kusakina-@Kusakina_Nastya, Georgia Hilmer-@georgiahilmer, Josephine Le Tutour-@JospephineLT_, Manon Leloup-@ManonLeLoup