Jil Sander AW13

Winter is the season for a designer's philosophy to shine. Jil Sander embraced that and topped it off with nice bags and shoes

Fashion Show
jilsander alta_34
Kasia Struss at Women, @kasiastrusspl Photography Luca Campri

There was a brief moment of pause before yesterday's Jil Sander show eventually began. Intentional or not – and this a designer that is never incidental – it served as a reminder of the heat surrounding this second collection since Sander's return to the brand. The set was as you would hope: clean and concise, featuring a mirrored geometric centrepiece which the models walked around.

Opening with a classic navy coat worn by Edie Campbell, the colour and variations of this garment endure as one of Sander's signature looks. Here it stamped out a clear message of intent, this collection dedicated to outlining her vision and reminding us just what she has achieved throughout her career, as a designer for women who championed separates dressing. Models walked with severe slicked back hair by Guido, setting the focus to the cuts of the garments themselves.

Colour was used beautifully, particularly with the use of a bold blue, yellow and orange, which were all contained within these sharp silhouettes. Whilst navy ponyskin formed a double-breasted coat and leather was used to create asymmetric pleats on a three-quarter length skirt and a structured dress. Two strapless dresses also echoed the strictness in the collection, forming a tight bond across the chest, exposing a gold band detail.

After the show ended, it was difficult to stop thinking about that moment of silence before it began. Not only was it a refreshing change of pace in this city, but something Sander spoke about after the show last season, when she voiced how she found the demand of pre-collections and fashion's new fast pace overwhelming. Sander may not have given us something completely unexpected – and we wouldn't want it any other way. This designer reminded us what is at the heart of her vision: discipline and mannerism. Chances are, whoever's wearing these clothes, will have a mind just as sophisticated.

www.jilsander.com

Hair: Guido Palau

Makeup: Pat McGrath

Models pictured: Sam Rollinson (@SamRollinson), Fei Fei Sun (@FeiFeiSunSun), Bette Franke (@Bette_Franke), Suvi Koponen (@SuviMK), Chiharu Okunugi (@chiharuuu0515), Marine Deleeuw (@DeleeuwMarine), Kasia Struss (@kasiastrusspl), Juliana Schurig (@juliana_schurig), Marte Mei van Haaster (@martevanhaaster

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