Inside the bunker-like, concrete walls of the industrial tanks at the Tate Modern, Richard Nicoll’s staccato show notes mentioned ‘the evolution of a day’ and ‘masculine glamour’. This turned out to be Nicoll code for exploring the changing emblems of womenswear. He made his point with no-nonsense mannish cashmere tailoring and clean dresses, scattered with his nostalgic and languidly feminine pyjamawear.
Nicoll’s sporty aesthetic lends itself well to louche, roomy men’s suiting, and proved a clever move. And in many ways, the show seemed to condense the designer’s vocabulary, underscored by the fact that the invitation had a big, fat NICOLL written across it.
Back in SS12, Nicoll labelled his icy blue confections a ‘Laura Palmer blue,’ and this season, he filled the room with the eerie mood of Audrey’s Dance from Twin Peaks and Donna Hayward’s fluffy angora jumpers. There’s definitely something Lynchian in the water: earlier in the day, Jonathan Saunders also went down the David Lynch path with a John Hopkins remix.
Hair: Shon for Fudge
Makeup: Sharon Dowsett
Models pictured: Ashleigh Good (@Ashleighh_Good), Marine Deleeuw (@MarineDeleeuw), Jourdan Dunn (@missjourdandunn), Mariana Coldebella (@mcoldebella), Sam Rollinson (@SamRollinson), Elinor Weedon (@ElinorWeedon), Stephanie Carta (@turnitupcarta), Tilda Lindstam (@tildalindstam)