To hell with poverty

Begüm Sekendiz Boré's new post examines Paris through 60s Italian art movement Arte Povera

RAFSIMONS1

Begüm Sekendiz Boré is a visual artist and writer based in Paris, cross-referencing fashion with ideas from fine art and contemporary culture to create new dialogues. Again & Again collects original works by the French artist on the fashion weeks and beyond. 

Raf Simons's maxim "No neoprene no futurism, just cotton and wool" traces Arte Poverathe political art movement of 60s Italy – as in his vote prints. Futhermore, the Italian penisula has been nicknamed "Lo Stivale" –The Boot. Hence Raf's sweaters with Puss in Boots detailing

Arte Povera rejects technocracy and industrialization, both previously favoured by the Futurists in Italy. Now in France, the  leaders  of arte povera are  running through mens' collections like water pipes through concrete slab, from Raf to Junya towards Rick. 

At Thom Browne, Erwin Wurm raises a Jannis Kounellis scarecrow for Browne's timber amish barn and then shoots two birds with one stone by framing a V for Louis Vuitton.

Not unlike Riccardo Tisci of Givenchy, Arte Povera artists looked to the  Big Apple, yet remained "conscious of possessing an inalienable Europen identity that was irreconcilable with any other",  in the words of artist Germano Celant.

Still, when Gilberto Zorio and  the Japanese Issey Miyake hook up, they look to pleats please to be true.

RAF SIMONS I

Luciano Fabro, L'Italia Ipocrita, 1996

RAF SIMONS II

Giovanni Anselmo, Il Panorama Fin Verso Oltramare, 1996

Check out Begüm Sekendiz Boré's blog here dandygum.blogspot.co.uk 

RAF1
RAF2

JUNYA WATANABE

Giovanni Anselmo, Grigi Che Si Alleggeriscono Verso Oltramare, 1994

 

JUNYA

RICK OWENS

Jannis Kounellis,  Untitled, 1966

 

RICK

THOM BROWNE

ABOVE Jannis Kounellis   BELOW Erwin Wurm, O.T (Cajetan Gril als Mönch), 2001-2003

 

THOM

LOUIS VUITTON

Jannis Kounellis, Untitled, 2005

 

LOUIS

GIVENCHY

Michalengelo Pistoletto, Wollen, La Mera Reintegrata, 2007

 

GIV

ISSEY MIYAKE

Gilberto Zorio, Untitled, 1967

issey

See all our latest features, interviews, and show reports from SS15, as it happens

More Fashion Week