Ahead of the menswear AW13 collections kicking off in London, we pay a visit to Miller's studio to pre-empt the collection
New year, new clothes. The AW13 collections are earlier than ever this season, as the second London Collections: Men kicks off today ahead of Pitti, Milan and Paris, following the success of the capital's AW12 standalone schedule. As designers put the finishing touches to their collections; carry out castings, fittings and hair tests, we go on a series of studio visits to get a feel of what to expect...
Dazed Digital: What was the biggest challenge in putting the collection together?
Matthew Miller: Life, it always seems to get in the way.
DD: Favourite advice you've had from someone?
Matthew Miller: "You should probably join the army." Which was said to me in secondary school after I said I wanted to do something creative during a careers advice meeting.
DD: Any tips for staying calm during fashion week?
Matthew Miller: Work your bollocks off for the five months prior to it and surround yourself with an amazing team.
DD: ...Or staying awake when there's so much work to do?
Matthew Miller: Chill out, they’re only fucking clothes. Life’s the most important thing, remember that.
DD: What were the first pieces in the collection you designed?
Matthew Miller: The concept of every collection defines the silhouettes, details and color. Once I have a concept the designing falls into place.
DD: What are you most proud of?
Matthew Miller: Every season, we focus on a new piece of outerwear, and this season we have a range of super lightweight raincoats, they are clean, sharp and minimal with anarchic reference.
DD: What other shows are you looking forward to seeing?
Matthew Miller: I’m looking forward to seeing what my contemporaries have produced for the Mr. Porter capsule collections – Katie Eary, SIBLING and Richard Nicoll. It launches at London Collections: Men on the Tuesday [8th January].
DD: Who embodies the spirit of your collection?
Matthew Miller: There are two people that I would love to see wearing the collection. First, the actor Ezra Miller, who I think combines youth, rebellion and the attitude of today. Secondly, the designer Stefano Pilati, who in my eyes is a rebellious sartorial icon.
DD: Sum up AW13 in three words…
Matthew Miller: Minimal, anarchic, uniform.
DD: What difference does fashion make?
Matthew Miller: Fashion is the image by which you want to be perceived. It gives us a sense of belonging, a sense of individuality and a sense of freedom. It is everything and nothing.