Fresh. Bouncing. Active. Those were the words that we left with after the latest Stella McCartney collection. To be fair, the last word has always been associated with Stella McCartney's "real propositions for real women" and even more since she started collaborating with Adidas in considering that really active part of a woman's lifestyle. Her dips into sportswear have been around for a few seasons now, but here she really distilled the essence of le look sportif into a clear cut message. There have been lots of technical fabrications abound this season and McCartney chose her sheer organzas and chiffons with care to ensure that the initial looks of blouson bomber jackets, sheer sweatshirts with underskirts and paneled plisse dresses were spot on in their simplicity and vitality.
Then McCartney made sure of her own signature tailoring injecting military green jackets, judo-style robe dresses in apple green and white to shore up and the staple pair of loose-cut trousers. These ran the gamut of McCartney's own brand of ease and succinct design messages. Especially when it came to a broad shouldered white trouser suit or a geometric printed silk jumpsuit. Plexiglass injected heels and bags emphasized the crisp and cool qualities of these sheer-laden clothes. The bounce and freshness that we took away from the collection came courtesy of a series of graphic dresses that made innovative use of stiff organza, cut up into pleats, shaped into circular panels and grafted onto a transparent white foundation. This technique was also used with a painterly brush stroke print in blue and pink but left the biggest impression when employed in solid blocks of neon orange, royal blue or forest green. The pleats almost looked animated as they glided down the catwalk. Just the sort of spirit that the Stella woman embodies.