Victor Glemaud
Published 38 months ago
Former KCD publicist and Paco Rabanne design advisor Victor Glemaud shows his F/W 07 collection.
- Text by Kin Woo
Unlike some designers who grandly proclaim anything from Dadaist art
movements to Salem Witch trials as their source of inspiration, Victor
Glemaud's collections unpretentiously and proudly takes himself as the
starting point. "It's based on the way I like to dress. There's
elements of me in there and elements of friends and people."
Much
like the man behind it, Glemaud's clothes are utterly charming yet
modern and playfully elegant. Only in his 3rd season, this former
publicist for KCD and design advisor at Paco Rabanne, (alongside
mentor, Patrick Robinson) is distinguishing himself among his American
contemporaries with a sense of fun and colour sorely lacking in
menswear. "After Paco Rabanne closed, I went to Ibiza with some friends
and decided to do a collection. The first season was very DIY.
I
cut up some cardigans, did them up and I showed them. The 2nd season
was refining that and making it more chic and wearable. With F/W 07 I
wanted this one to be a bit more tonal, more elegant"
Much like Thom
Browne in his shrunken suits, Glemaud is his own best advertisement.
"Men are afraid of colour because it's hard to wear. For me, I do
colour because it's what looks good on me." His tip is to "ground it in
something real and not so fashiony. Like a classic pant. It needs to be
with a respectable shoe". True to this, his collection features
beautifully tailored tuxedo shirts, trousers and shorts; and always
feature sturdy brogues.
His knitwear is rightfully bringing him
to attention - deconstructed and soft enough to be layered. His
signature piece is the double cardigan, innovated with trompe l'oeil
effects, in punchy yellow, violet and electric blue. "I wanted to
expand on the knitwear shapes but bring it to a new place. I wanted it
to be a bit more sexy." And what should we expect for S/S 08? "I want
to do sexy graduation!"
