The Maison shows why it is still the go to label for a distorted yet desirable point of view
There were some that asserted Maison Martin Margiela post-Margiela wasn't ever going to be the same. That much is true but this latest collection proved that MMM know exactly how to stimulate the day to day wardrobe of the many who have invested in Margiela over the years, and in an exciting way at that. There was an assured accomplishment as dresses exaggerated in their features came down the catwalk – slits that were too tight and bunching up at the back, bust lines that were cartoonishly curvaceous, pockets that were really really deep. Sleeveless tops worn like oversized tabards explored that old Margiela-ism of supersizing proportions. When the show began to tackle evening wear though, that's when MMM's effective capabilities really revved up. This ongoing conversation of reaction, reflection and reduction of mid-century bygone couture shapes has been knocking around for a while now. MMM gets their say by ensuring there is a down to earth reality injected into every grossly oversized piece. A satin black t-shirt that flared out over a stiffened sheer ball skirt with visible pocket linings was weirdly convincing. A grey marl padded t-shirt that fell to the floor like an oversized hip hop t-shirt was also maddeningly desirable. A game of concealing and revealing in the final passage of sheer gowns, masking the body in a witty way, was another Margiela-ism done good. It was a powerful re-assertion of the values instilled by Margiela himself and one that felt like it could have a true impact on what we pull over our heads.