Huge perfume bottles and a ghost of a collection
Dazed's team round up each day of Paris womenswear Spring Summer 13 with their thoughts. Fashion director Karen Langley muses on day three...
Dazed Digital: What did you experience today?
Karen Langley: Balenciaga was very nice, with amazing accessories – spiral rings that went around the fingers or a chunky gold band with rising swirls. There were interesting shapes, a couple of looks that were like futuristic flamenco with minimal tops. And I liked what looked like leather but was more likely a specially treated fabric, applied as if zooming in on lace. This season had more of a sophistication than last and didn't really have that sporty sway that was present in AW12. You won't see from the photos, but there were amazing headpieces, gold bars running around the back of the head.
At Rick Owens the hair was beyond, brushed-out bobs that looked like topiary or trimmed hedges, pure hairstyling genius. The collection was beautiful as well, almost a ghost of a collection in layered transparencies or light greys. There were also a few looks that looked almost like hanging garment bags, and the backdrop was pretty special – foam spilling from the ceiling onto the floor. Obviously the soundtrack was futuristic and dark and I finally got to meet Zebra Katz at last. We did the Rick Owens meets Zebra Katz head to head feature back in the June issue and Ojay stayed at my flat when I was away shooting, so it was nice to chat.
Ann Demeulemeester I really enjoyed, which had a slight Asian touch through the bellowing sleeves, even though it still felt really 'Ann'. The sleeves were actually so long they cascaded behind the models as they were walking, and harnesses were featured in various ways, from the skeletal to the Obi-esque. It felt ceremonious.
Karlie Kloss made an appearance at Lanvin, which was Alber's take on tuxedo and which then nodded to Asia and a play on Obi belts. There were also peculiar bags that looked like oversized perfume bottles. Shoes had silver, chunky heels and an almost holographic finish.
DD: What are you looking forward to next?
Karen Langley: Tomorrow is all about Dior and Raf Simons' first ready-to-wear collection for the house. Very exciting.