Insider Access: Robbie Spencer – Milan Day Two

It's all about Prada

Fashion Insider
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Dazed's team round up each day of Milan womenswear Spring Summer 13 with their thoughts. Senior fashion editor Robbie Spencer talks day two...

Dazed Digital: What did you experience today?
Robbie Spencer:
The high of the day was Prada, it is always  the show we all anticipate the most in Milan, the collection had a very minimal 60s Courregès sport feel mixed with an Asian influence, dutchesse satin ceremonial gown elements deconstructed in looks with Kimono style folds and bows, layered in pastel pinks and mint greens and lots of black, red and white with flower motifs. I loved the tabi socks and maiko stacked shoes, the music was an intense collision of 80s synth, with Asian instrumentals and a French female vocalist groaning over the top.

Some of my favourite newcomers in Prada were Maartje Verhoef who opened, Irina Kravchenko and new half-Asian, half-French model Yumi Lambert. It was also nice to see Valery Kaufman and Grace Mahary who I saw in Milan castings walk the show. And then some break out stars of last season such as Elena Bartels, Elza Luijendijk, Hedvig Palm, Dazed favourite Marte Mei van Haaster and Vanessa Axente. Plus the regular Prada faces such as Magdalena Frackowiak, Ginta Lapina, Kasia Struss, Julia Nobis, Guinevere Van Seenus and Daria Strokous.

I liked the way they really contrasted the girls' heights. Very tall girls like Magdelena were put in heels and lots of the new face girls of average height were put in the flat Tabi socks. It reminded me of the previous men's show from AW12 where average height actors walked with what we have become used to – but are actually abnormally tall – teenage models. It created a stark visual comparison between catwalk ritual and everyday life: the ideal mannequin body versus the real human body.

DD: Favourite off-catwalk moment?
Robbie Spencer:
Seeing the seamstresses having a quick break, hanging out of the window watching us from above whilst we were all queuing to get into the Prada venue. 

DD: What are you looking forward to next?
Robbie Spencer:
I am really looking forward to shooting this collection, I am also looking forward to Fendi and Jil Sander back at the helm of Jil Sander later on during Milan fashion week.

Photography Piotr Niepsuj 

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