"43 paintings... my creations to celebrate feminine sensuality," was how Roberto Cavalli summarised his Spring/Summer 13 collection, stripping back on foot-to-the-floor molto and contrasting dark and light. Shadow is a crucial part of any picture after all.

Inspired by Art Nouveau, but working that into something that would bolster the linear, elongated silhouette, prints were designed by hand, away from the chop Command+S world of the computer and punctuated with lace details and leather cut-outs.

Layers of mousseline added to a stirring conflation, with precious metallic and glass embroideries dissolving at the bottom of the dresses, alternated with cut, reconstructed lace or leather decorated appliqué.

Seeing things as either black or white is rarely acknowledged as a good thing. For Cavalli, it's a winning ethos – which the injections of blush, lime and apricot along the way didn't overwork. On a strong cast, this picture deserved its sublime frame.