Umit Benan considered New York for Spring/Summer 13, but the inspiration didn't taint his pragmatic luxe too extremely. Beanies and sunglasses, an American export since grunge, nodded toward the Big Apple, but his Trussardi collection felt more like an ode to the relaxed style of actress and model Lauren Hutton. Masculine and utility codes softened up – two strands at the core of Benan's design handwriting, whatever the season – with giant pocket blouses, wrapover dresses and a sleeveless take on the safari, a wardrobe that felt beyond the rigid expression of NY neighbourhoods, whether uptown or down.