This season, Maarten van der Horst's SS13 collection took the issues of consumerism and commodity that proved so stimulating in his Studio t-shirt line and used them to suffocate the florals he's become synonymous with over his first two Fashion East catwalks. It was solely down to van der Horst that the Hawaiian shirt became part of the contemporary vernacular again and if this show was anything to go by, it'll be carrier bags next – though not to protect your feet from mud at a festival.

Swathing his girls in gauzy trenches and asymmetric tops printed with plastic carriers, as well as Swarovski'd up workwear, the designer sent out an anarchic riposte to the logic of expectation, turning left and keeping everyone on their toes. In the context of venue 50 St James' grandiose surroundings, his statement became further amplified.

"I love the venue, which is beautiful and ornate – a great contrast to Maarten's bin bag fabric dresses and punk rock," said collection stylist and Dazed's deputy fashion editor Emma Wyman backstage. "Plus the fact that Maarten also chose to play power ballads such as Mariah Carey during the seating for his show! Quite amazing."