Calvin Klein Collection Womenswear SS13

The erotic unfinished

Fashion Show

With media operating at such a frenzy these days, there is a tendency to get so wrapped up in the fierceness and outrageousness of a women's outfit, as she trades audacity for authenticity, that the short term shock value becomes higher than long term credibility. There's an audience for both, certainly, but Francisco Costa opted for his Calvin Klein collection to appeal to the latter. Clean faced models showed dresses still under construction, raw edges and seams like fresh drawn sketches on paper. The finished product, however, was incredibly complimentary in its unabashed honesty, stepping away from the body to let it move freely inside, there for structure and support but giving it room to be free. The sex appeal was left to the woman, a confident and intelligent dresser who can show a seam and laugh about it. Perhaps John Keats said it best: "Beauty is truth, truth beauty. That's all you know on earth and all you need to know."

Dazed Digital: How did you start concepting this collection?
Francisco Costa:
It was a combination of [Alberto] Vargas, the artist, a lot of his erotic pictures, mixed with Carolyn Bessette Kennedy's essence of how to dress, and how to dress in an urban environment. She dressed in a really interesting, intellectual way, she wore a lot of Japanese clothes and a lot of Calvin Klein. If you go back to some of the pictures she was really incredible; the precision and the waist was so chic. So between the two worlds was the essence of this woman behind it. The clothes are either extremely feminine or extremely finished but revealing, so the seams are all exposed and there's a lot of shadow work throughout the clothes which lightened up the palette.There's this artist I really love, who I've collaborated with in the past, his name is Carsten Nicolai, and he created this book where he developed numerous moire patterns with this formula. It's done by layering structures together. In order to create the fabrics we really went deep into his works and what these structures are and how to create the shadow work.

DD: Where do you think sexiness or eroticism comes into this unfinished look?
Francisco Costa: 
I think it's a perfect balance, because the clothes are so finished inside, inside is just like this perfection and then there's this revealing sense of not caring so much, not being taken so seriously. The eroticism I think comes from revealing the most erotic parts of a woman's body: the breasts are so erotic and are slightly pointed, a lot of leg showing, those parts of the body are just incredible. I think that can be explored when a woman goes into the store to buy the clothes, she's totally covered and putting herself out there in the most feminine and fun way.

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