At first you noticed how androgynous everything was, how well cut all the jackets and trousers were that looked so perfectly slouchy and sophisticated. The closer you looked revealed more experimental details, like the a sheer or cut out v-shaped panel right below the nape of the neck, regarded, especially in Japanese culture, as an extremely erotic and sensuous area on a woman's body. They were especially exposed as all the models had chin length, chopped and wet crimped hair, dyed kool-aid style in hues of acid green to burgundy to candy floss blue. Anyone who's ever taken the colour of their hair into their own hands knows the look and sensation of newly dyed hair, still damp with manic panic and the efforts of self-directed transformation. Theysken's Theory is the type of label that keeps its tailoring smart and chic, but they want the girl inside the outfit to be changing things for herself and exploring her identity; taking matters into her own hands.
Dazed Digital: What were some of the inspirations behind it?
Oliver Theyskens: I've been inspired by seeing pictures of the deep sea where you have this very dark background that is black or dark blue and pictures of organisms that were very transparent and in these pastels. For the fabrics and the colours I wanted to have a lot of synthetic fibres spread into the fabrics like the way we spread so much plastic in the ocean. I wanted a lot of disintegrated pieces of synthetic within the natural fibres of the fabric.
DD: The hair was also very interesting...
Oliver Theyskens: I chopped off my hair about a month and a half ago and it made me approach a lot of silhouettes differently, just change the attitude.
DD: Is that where the V in the neckline came from?
Oliver Theyskens: That V in the neckline is something I often do to my own clothes, I feel they fit better like that. It became something I like to do and repeat in this project here. I wanted to have them with this transparent organza in the middle, which I think is very chic, very beautiful. It's true, at least with the hair chopped off people can see it!