Metallics were slowly injected into the classic white canvas at Maison Martin Margiela this season, in the form of sleek espadrille footwear and embroidered waistcoats with a chainmail effect (actually made from drinks can ringpulls). The collection was a confident stride through the handbook of Margiela style as construction and decomposition ran through tailoring, with oversized touches that frequently appear within the maison's collections.

Vintage-inspired t-shirts and jackets made from huge collages of patches are the season's showstoppers, a cheeky contrast to the – of course – blanc-ness that permeated throughout the show. Deliberately treated, worn and re-purposed fabrics coincided with the natural ambiance of the live music – both were a story of light and shadow playing out.