Pitti: Valentino Menswear S/S13

Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli showed elegant tuxedos mixed with trainers and camouflage jackets

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Not many brands comes with such a solid reputation for elegance as Valentino. Having brought glamour to the world of fashion for decades, Valentino himself handed over to a younger generation of designers a while back. Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli were tasked with translating their master's sartorial ideas into a modern-day wardrobe. The result, as we've seen in the last few collections, is a smart yet wearable solution defined by updated classics and clever ways of making traditional garments relevant to a younger audience. This time around, in the beautiful settings of the Giardino di Boboli park, we were treated to a distinctively sporty version of Valentino. This meant we only saw trainers, not a single leather shoe, throughout. And as the main print attraction, Chiuri and Piccioli presented a camouflage pattern made up by a mish mash of different fabrics and colours.

The Valentino heritage, although tweaked for a 21st century lifestyle, still maintains that level of elegant glamour. The plain white shirts that were evenly interspersed on models throughout testified to this notion of understated luxury

Cropped and boxy bomber jackets dominated, challenged only in quantity by M65-inspired utility jackets. The colour palette focused on khaki green, beige, white and red with a welcome injection of lemon yellow. Towards the end we saw heavy duty denim parade, before the obligatory tuxedo outfits. In a way, more than for most Italian brands, those last looks were a fitting end to the S/S13 show. The Valentino heritage, although tweaked for a 21st century lifestyle, still maintains that level of elegant glamour. The plain white shirts that were evenly interspersed on models throughout testified to this notion of understated luxury - and that's the exact reason why we want and need Valentino in our lives...

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