T.Lipop Menswear S/S13

Tom Lipop on Guatemala, Mexico and L.A street gangs...

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Showing for the second time as part of the Fashion East Menswear installations, held in the regal setting of a town house just off The Mall, T.Lipop produced a super colourful collection taking inspiration from Mexican street gangs contrasted with a more traditional culture. The aesthetic was a big leap in a new direction after last season's take on traditional British tailoring and heritage active wear. The label's creative director and designer, Tom Lipop, sat down with us to explain his desire to constantly keep changing things up, while retaining a sense of what his label is about.

"We looked at what we did two seasons ago with Guatemala as a reference, which had a more ethnic feel, so for this collection I wanted to do something that was more vibrant and colourful. I was interested in the two different street cultures, as I see them, within Mexico. I started with the traditional cuts, the short trousers and the baseball vests and then ideas from the gangs in L.A, which is where we got that vibrancy from. Colours came from the sugar skulls, so super brights, blues, yellow's red and orange. I wanted to do something that was more fun and I wanted to do something that wasn't forced and was really different to last season. We feel like each collection we don't want to get stuck in the cycle of producing similar ideas, but just in a new colour palette. That was definitely the aim behind things this time, to do something that was far removed from what we did previously. We still have signature cuts and we are still using the same fabrics, but in new ways. Embroidery was a new element as well, which we used on a number of pieces as stand out detailing. We tracked down an amazing East London studio that specialise in digital embroidery made to look like it's hand embroidery. I prefer embroidery to print, I feel it looks more exclusive than print and adds more depth."

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