"To create authenticity, beauty has to be destroyed," says Matthew Miller, in what has become the leitmotif of his Spring/Summer 13 collection, Citations. The wearer of his clothes is invited to be part of this process – a pre-folded t-shirt must be torn along its heat-transferred panel to be worn. Whilst elbow patches, outlined by laser, are revealed by a forceful pull.
"When I was producing the collection I was thinking 'what is real luxury?'," the designer explains to Dazed. "Is it fur, pearls, diamonds, all that bollocks that you think of as luxury? Life is real luxury, being able to breathe, live, talk, walk. If life is the most important thing, health and safety seems to be the bible, it's there to preserve life."
Thus fire blankets build Miller's MA-1 jackets and there is a message of utility throughout in aluminium and super lightweight 120 wools. The human in the context of his environment is recurrent, the sole all-over print taken from CCTV footage of an east London council estate. Whilst a laser-etched suit references designers from MAN and NEWGEN MEN.
Dazed Digital visited Miller ahead of his show to talk through the collection...