EXCLUSIVE PREVIEW: Berthold S/S13

Loose shapes and oversized elements clash with slim silhouettes in Raimund Berthold's spring collection

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Originally from Austria but having lived in London for a number of years now, Raimund Berthold's eponymous label feels like a combination of both British and European design influences. Forward thinking shapes contrast against slimmer more accessible pieces but given a youthful and avant-garde twist in a truly London way. This season the designer has taken elements from successful previous collections and re-worked, keeping in mind wearability and a sense of the figure. Flattering, functional and at the same time directional. Colours have been ramped up, moving on from his previous more subdued palette and adding striking stand out tones on various details. A transition into luggage has also been key for the new collection, with Berthold producing bags that are in keeping with his aesthetic and crafted beautifully.

Really loose shapes and oversized elements are always in there but this seaosn I have contrasted that against much slimmer silhouettes.

Dazed Digital: What are the inspirations for this season?
Raimund Berthold: I work for images mainly. I pull them from so many different sources that there isn't ever really one theme or inspiration. I make boards of images, like memory boards rather than mood boards. I have an idea of where I want to go and then start in the library going through new and old books. Starting points can be a scar on someone, or a tattoo, any detail in an image that stands out to me. That can then be communicated into a shape or a detail in a garment.

DD: What shapes and silhouettes are you focusing on?
Raimund Berthold: 
Really loose shapes and oversized elements are always in there but this seaosn I have contrasted that against much slimmer silhouettes. I have done trousers with slight gussets on the side, soft jerseys have been used to keep things floating on the body, lots of diagonal zip details but keeping things very simple. I like subtle details, the idea of wearing something normal with an oversized piece. Cropped biker jackets, shirts, all very casual set against big long coats with chunky zips. Then we have details such as the inner apron shapes to give layers.

DD: What about colours and materials?
Raimund Berthold: 
We have used our palette of blues, blacks but also added in some new colours like silver nylon, not completely metallic but still very silver. We have used waxed cotton to give some shape and some definition, in blues and greens. We have also worked with a beautiful print that was developed from an image of a glass of orange juice that was then worked on by the girls at Patternity. We have used super light knits and then heavy cotton drills. I often work with super light materials contrasted against something heavier. I feel it keeps it really modern and functional as well. There is a lot of neoprene again this season, but in details like the neckline or the placket.

DD: How have you moved forwards from last season?
Raimund Berthold: 
I have actually taken across elements rather than moving forwards purely. I created a whole series of neoprene garments last season as I really loved the material, thinking they would be more show pieces. They sold incredibly well so I have revisited that. I have done is slimmed down the volume a little this time around. I have always done contrasting silhouettes but I think people know me for the more oversized pieces, but I really want to push that contrast between the two this season.

DD: You have also produced bags which is a new direction for you?
Raimund Berthold:
 Yeah, I really wanted to do some bags and had been developing ideas. I then had a conversation with Nick Bond from Porte Monnaie. I showed him what I had been working on, we brainstormed a couple of ideas and he ended up taking the designs and working out how they could work better, which was great. I'm really excited about doing them and am pleased with how they have come out. We have managed to include the idea of contrasting volumes and fabrics but in a really useable way.

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