Kanye West Womenswear A/W12

Kanye West envisions a long-term future for his career as a fashion designer as his sophomore effort reins in his ideas

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"I just want to go on creating. I just want to learn. I want people to try and see this four or six years from now and not judge for it based on what it is now," said Kanye West in a hectic backstage of celebrity friends and press congratulating him. This slightly defensive confession demonstrates that West knows he is on a learning curve, one that can be harsh in fashion. West’s heavily critiqued debut hasn't shirked him away from another collection and whilst the teething problems of construction are still there, the main adjustment is the focus and edit that is tightened up. This singular vision was also reflected in the soundtrack which didn’t wasn’t the mix-a-lot jam of last season but a steely military pounding of beats. Go-karts came speeding out around the track at either side of the catwalk during the finale, which didn't seem connected with the show directly but gave it a production value that was worth watching.

I just want to go on creating. I just want to learn. I want people to try and see this four or six years from now and not judge for it based on what it is now

As for the show itself, textures of black, astrakhan and velvet devore wrapped Kanye’s girl up in a lean and mean silhouette with the occasional sweatshirt shape and gorilla fur-armed jacket. The collection was amplified with the only reminder of his first collection – the giant furry backpacks as well as chunky strapped knee high boots and croc collars. "I want to make stuff that is sculptural and that girls like," said West when asked what he wants his label to be about. The open back biker jackets, the velvet devore dresses and the oversized bags may just be the ticket items to getting girls in his gear.

I want to make stuff that is sculptural and that girls like

"My aim was just to do the best I can up to the point where I was at. I just want to respect the craft and to appreciate the opportunity to go into the office everyday." You get the feeling that there’s some vague realisation of his own shortcomings as a fashion designer and by even referring to his label as the "office", he's prepared to invest all his time (and presumably money) in to making it work. West is no stranger to critique and just as his music has matured, made emphatic turns, one year of his beginnings in fashion design probably isn't the right litmus test. Could we be giving West a standing ovation six years from now? Who knows.

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