EXCLUSIVE: Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci Womenswear A/W12

Marcelo Burlon, who has known Riccardo Tisci since 1999, tells the story...

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For me, the Givenchy show is like a ritual, the same friends preparing and going to the show together – myself, Edward Buchanan and Macs Iotti.

The venue is the same that Riccardo has used for four years, but only for the women's prêt-à-porter show. It's in the couryard of a college. We go there about an hour before it starts and meet Ricky's family every season, so it's a bit like a reunion. Then we position ourselves at the beginning of the runway so we can scream loudly when Tisci comes out! The front row was quite amazing, from Alicia Keys to P. Diddy, Kanye West and Cassie, Marina Abramovic, Laetitia Casta and Amanda Lear.

The inspiration this season came from 1970's horseriding, really equestrian, and the sexuality and frivolity of Guy Bourdin's aesthetic. This season, he projected himself into the future whilst also looking at the past, ending up revisiting the best style moments of the 1970s from colours to shapes

The inspiration for Autumn/Winter 12 came from 1970's horseriding, really equestrian, and the sexuality and frivolity of Guy Bourdin's aesthetic. Riccardo keeps on playing with the feminine and the masculine. This season, he projected himself into the future whilst also looking at the past, ending up revisiting the best style moments of the 1970s from colours to shapes.

Taking on Haute Couture savoir-faire and techniques fused with street-style elements, the collection elaborates on what was introduced with the pre-Fall and the men's show. Going back to darkness with a different maturity, Riccardo is mixing black with a rich colour palette of brown, chocolate, purple, green, red, pink and orange. The highlights were the accessories: oversized earrings looked like horse blinders, scarves around the neck, second-skin gloves and high riding boots.

The soundtrack was composed live by the Italian duo Discodromo, who are based in Berlin. They're two friends I introduced to Riccardo last year and of course they fell in love creatively. The inspiration for the music was tribal, coming from mysticism and sacrificial ceremonies; military marching music married to the language of contemporary electronic/dance music.

Taking on Haute Couture savoir-faire and techniques fused with street-style elements, the collection elaborates on what was introduced with the pre-Fall and the men's show

Backstage right after the show is always very busy... there's a 50 metre line to say hello to Ricky! Usually we wait till everyone has left and finally we can sit with him and his family to chat a little before the dinner or party.

I first met Riccardo in 1999 and since then we've been friends. Every time I go to Paris to see him and the Givenchy show, it's like going to the first day of school. The excitement is so intense, I always need to stop and breathe because my heart's beating so hard. We're like kids off to Disneyland! The beginning of our careers was a fantastic time. We were only 23 and 24 years old and had a freshness in our minds that drove us to what we do as individuals today. The first presentations we organised in Milan under his name were pieces of art performance. Pure avant-garde. From the venues to the music and lights, the clothes and the casting. A real theatrical piece. Thinking about those days, with no pressures or obligations, is like heaven...

Photography by Sofia Malamute.

Marcelo Burlon hails from Patagonia but is the man in Milan. An editor, stylist, director, PR, DJ, sound designer, events organiser (and many things in between), Burlon is a relentless champion of new talent and creativity in the city. Click here for the story of his Milan Fashion Week
 

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