EXCLUSIVE: Peachoo + Krejberg Womenswear A/W12

Dazed's Fashion Director and show stylist Karen Langley shares her thoughts...

Fashion Show
Photography Olivier Claisse

The whole process from conception to styling was painless and a complete joy – it actually freaked me out a bit how smooth it was! Peachoo + Krejberg never go with a theme or anything as literal as that, they run with their aesthetic, twist and evolve it: they have a real handwriting and ethos. It was very textural this season and feathers were an important part, giving a sense of drama but in a very grounded, believable way.

The show was in a really great space in a beautiful building; the salle Mélopomène of the Beaux Arts, which I've seen some fantastic fashion shows in over the years by Rick Owens and Junya Watanabe. We made it into a very minimal catwalk space, unobscured and with clean lines. It's on the opposite side of the river from the Louvre.

The clothes require attention. Skirts also looked like trousers from behind and their evening dresses are for girls with attitude, one of their best collections to date

The soundtrack was realised by the amazing techno DJ Jennifer Cardini, who has collaborated for quite some time with Roy and Peachoo. It was quite dark, with rhythmic tweeting of birds to introduce the feature creations. Her selection is always very bassy – it hits you in the chest and you really feel it.

The feathered pieces were good to do. They showed how creative the designers are and how technically refined. They were done in a way in a way that felt true to the label rather than gimmicky. In the collection, I loved all the cool shearlings and goat too. They're always so good with leather.

Nothing is as it seems in their world, which is always captivating. Long leather skirts had a zip all the way up the back – things you would miss just looking at the show in a quick way. The clothes require attention. Skirts also looked like trousers from behind and their evening dresses are for girls with attitude, one of their best collections to date.

James Pecis did amazing job – there was no hair as such but instead this brilliant leather-looking ponytail. He is one of the few hairstylists that would be excited about doing that and he does it so well.

Casting was by Sarah Murray. It was a considered line up, with new girls mixing with more established. Alison Nix is having a comeback this season and it's nice to have her. Suzie Bird always looks great in the collection too and this season actually requested she do the show.

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