Marni Womenswear A/W12

Consuelo Castiglioni went for decisive volumes and natural materials mixed in with synthetic fabrics

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Consuelo Castiglioni's Marni is a label that celebrates the joy of contrast – the organic versus the synthetic; planes of colour, prints and texture her calling card. A riff on dress that is inherently optimistic, everything is equal in Marni world – even if bygone decades flash through the subconscious, it's done truly with objectivity and a lack of nostalgia.

This season saw a dropped waist, decisive volumes and an overall graphicism take precedence. Fur cradled the shoulders, married to the bottom half of a military jacket – something that recurred throughout the show, along with energetic interruptions of scarlet red. Like any good exhibition, Marni buzzes with inventive curation.

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