British NEWGEN MAN designer Christopher Raeburn continues to work around the themes of urban protection for his new A/W12 collection, entitled ‘Scorch’. Using Nomex, a fireproof textile, Raeburn has evolved his innovative designs to feature subtle, functional detailing and masculine styles.
Our new collection takes its inspiration from fire equipment and our limited edition "Remade in England" pieces are constructed from old, authentic fire trousers. The parka that you see in the film is entirely made from original Nomex fire trousers
For his Remade range, the designer focuses on the core principle of ensuring each limited edition garment is a hand-crafted quality item. This season, he translates the use of Nomex from fire fighter’s trousers into enduring thermal garments with water and fireproof properties across a range of outerwear staples, including a Parka with double-entry pockets and reflective trims. Here, we premiere the new Ryan Hopkinson-directed clip, featuring the innovative material in action...
Dazed Digital: What's the story behind the 'Scorch' video?
Christopher Raeburn: I was approached by talented filmmaker Ryan Hopkinson last year; he was interested in the work I was doing and showed me his showreel of previous projects - it was really convincing. Ryan talked through an idea he'd had for a while about working with a professional stuntman and actually setting him on fire (nothing would be done in post-production). It was an exciting conversation but at the time it wasn't quite in line with the work that I was doing.
I was keen that the film would make sense creatively and aesthetically; as we'd worked with fireproof fabrics before, and I was leaning that way for A/W, I asked Ryan to wait a few months. Our new collection takes its inspiration from fire equipment and our limited edition "Remade in England" pieces are constructed from old, authentic fire trousers. The film started to make a lot of sense in conjunction with the new collection. The parka that you see in the film is entirely made from original Nomex fire trousers.
DD: Where did the inspiration to use Nomex come from?
Christopher Raeburn: I'd worked (and reworked) with a lot of military fabrics before but wanted something different for this season. About three years ago I'd make a small range of bags from fire trousers and the functional nomex fabrics have been something I loved ever since. The interesting thing is that on the one hand I was working with 'Remade' garments to make key pieces for the collection, but then when visiting Hainsworth (a mill in West Yorkshire) I was able to see the fabric actually being made; we used deadstock fabrics through the collection as well.
DD: What is it about the material that appealed to you / seemed a right fit for consumer fashion?
Christopher Raeburn: I've always loved functional fabrics but the nomex is really special; it's really robust as well as being waterproof, and of course fireproof. While we've used the nomex in some pieces we were also careful to have a balance to the collection so there are also heavier wools and recycled nylons.
DD: What kind of man do you see wearing the collection?
Christopher Raeburn: I'm so proud to see my collections selling in stores like Liberty and Harvey Nichols; I think our customer shops in these stores, but if I had to describe them I think it's somebody who really understands quality, detail and craftmanship.
Film by Ryan Hopkinson