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Gucci Womenswear A/W12

Dark romance by Frida Giannini as Milan Fashion Week starts

Frida Giannini has her Gucci girl sussed. Playing with different elements each season but having the long-term consistency of a palpable heroine. "I was watching Aymeline and when she wore it you really believed the story," says Dazed's Fashion Director Karen Langley. "It was a really accomplished show."

Giannini's femme is the girl with dark eyes, immaculately put together but with a contrasting dynamic going on in her head: an allure of insouciance. Musically, Bowie and The Velvet Underground are very likely glued to her turntable, whatever the time.

Following Spring/Summer's glorious modern art deco, the mood for Autumn/Winter is restless. The sun has set and the light has turned to aubergine, purple, burgundy, black and texture – the darkest romance. Capes, floor-length velvet skirts, great furs and poetic military jackets styled on shoulders the vocabulary. All with dark blood lips.