Christopher Kane Womenswear A/W12

A collection that doesn't ask questions: walking into a nightclub and getting on with it

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Christopher Kane is the London show that surprises and unifies fashion fans consistently. Recently we've seen the gel-filled collection inspired by pencil cases and a shimmering ease inspired by teenage girls in their council estate bedrooms. Both of which are brilliant, obviously – rare is such idiosyncrasy and wit, rarer still the ability to turn pop into beautifully executed high fashion.

I always wanted to do something really dirty and grungy, a tough collection that doesn't ask questions. It's about walking into a nightclub and getting on with it

Kane took his inspiration from a combination of cultural references this season; Al Pacino's Cruising and more specifically its soundtrack, as well as the photography of Joseph Szabo, came together for the collection's starting point. Research either of these two references, you can certainly see where Kane was going. Both revolve around the decadence of youth, the grungier the better and it is this toughness that has come through for Kane. “I always wanted to do something really dirty and grungy, a tough collection that doesn't ask questions,” he says. “It's about walking into a nightclub and getting on with it."

It's that mood, that simplistic, fearsome, gut instinct that really pushed this showing. Classic Kane silhouettes are there, body con dresses, sleeveless, chiselled waists, but it's harder this season. Colours and materials are super bright and unwavering, purple leopard print vinyl, black leather ribbing, deep reds, intense blues, an oil-like sheen. Puffa and quilted nylon sections appeared as well, often with that oil-slick look. Skirts were short, but not mini, coats were ribbed but column-like in places and fur jackets appeared with contrasting pleather embellishments.

You could say it's much the attitude of London. A party girl with friends in high places – and low.

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