ACNE Womenswear A/W12

A severe, striking statement from Jonny Johansson and his Swedish brand

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Loosened up by the terrifyingly strong cocktails served pre-show, the crowd was greeted with a booming bassline, sounding half Downtown club, half Blade Runner soundtrack. The ACNE show had begun. The combination of futuristic and full-on cool is exactly what the Swedish label's creative director, Jonny Johansson had in store.

It's restrictive, it's vicious, it's glamourous. And it's never, ever, boring

The ACNE girl is always striking, but across the past few seasons we have seen more than a subtle nod to a reworked vintage look, inspired as Jonny describes "by the girls I surround himself with in the studio." The look has been off-duty and the nonchalance of subtle statement. Not this season, however. The cool girl is there but this is a collection of statement pieces and stand-outs.

Metallics contrasting blues, greens, reds, and patterning: almost an 80's modernist feel

Restricted and formed, structural and dynamic with vinyl trousers and skirts set off against three dimensional knits, teddy bear coats with a boyfriend silhouette, padding, quilting and nylon. Wide leg trousers and tulip dresses were accentuated with super wide belts, giving tiny waists against voluminous shapes. Metallics contrasting blues, greens, reds, and patterning: almost an 80's modernist feel.

It's restrictive, it's vicious, it's glamourous. And it's never, ever, boring.

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