EXCLUSIVE: Louise Gray Womenswear A/W12

Relentless creativity and the right polish – Louise Gray takes it! Listen to the Hanna Hanra-mixed soundtrack here

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Season after season Louise Gray produces collections that are full of fun, punch, pop and colour. And this showing for Autumn/Winter 12, titled "I'll take it," was no different. While there can be something very intense about her clothes, and a wearer that more than wants to be noticed is required to bring the pieces to life, this season was the one the Scottish-born designer really showed her acumen.

This city is loved for its creativity and its experimentation when it comes to fashion – something Gray has an abundance of – and has for a long time been known as the place a designer grows before heading off to Paris or New York. Her collection this season seemed almost as if she had managed to make that move, while staying exactly where she was.

This city is loved for its creativity and its experimentation when it comes to fashion – something Gray has an abundance of – and has for a long time been known as the place a designer grows before heading off to Paris or New York

Forward thinking pieces, metallic print jumpsuits, layered dungarees, felted wool structured dresses and shaped shoulder coats in blues, silvers, yellows and reds, set often on a white base, retained her signature sensibility but at the same time have evolved to a new slickness. There is a knowledge and understanding here that had something of the big fashion houses about it – Gray's magpie aesthetic polished to another level. The perfect equilibrium, played out to a soundtrack mixed by Hanna Hanra, you can listen to exclusively here.

For all that, you can't help thinking these clothes should be on stage, worn by a great frontwoman. Siouxsie Sioux should be wearing these clothes. And she should be wearing them right now.

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