EXCLUSIVE: Marios Schwab Womenswear A/W12

Melissa Levy, assistant to show stylist Katy England, recounts the experience

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Down an alleyway, hidden in an industrial Dalston loft is the Marios Schwab atelier. The five days in the lead up to the A/W 12 collection was an incredible experience to say the least.

Assistants immersed in their work, patterns splayed across tables, sewing machines a constant hum amongst the mixtape of opera and the soundtrack from Drive. Beads and sequins meticulously being sewn onto graphically charted fragile lace gave instant goosebumps. Below, models crowded the stairwell in a uniform of silver jewellery, black wet look tights and platform boots eagerly awaiting for their moment to dazzle casting director Piergiorgio Del Moro and stylist Katy England.

Punctuating the collection were the most amazing stiletto point heels complete with a Mary Jane T-bar and silver metalwork. Definitely on the shopping list for next season

Marios paid homage to Marlene Dietrich, art nouveau and Hitchcock, his woman strong and mysterious. Lace and embroidery inspired by the structure and form of sound waves was replicated over the body with crin, traditionally used in millinery – paired with holographic sequin skirts, acid fur, puffer jackets, bringing her into modernity. Punctuating the collection were the most amazing stiletto point heels complete with a Mary Jane T-bar and silver metalwork. Definitely on the shopping list for next season!

The creative process that unfolds before the show, from casting, to looks to fittings, working around the clock was a magnificent amalgamation of talent, placing all the final pieces like a jigsaw puzzle. The venue was Somerset House, the morning brisk, with blue skies. The show ran like clockwork, the girls were immaculate and not one hiccup! The three hat shares were successfully executed by Phillip Treacy’s assistant. And the changes from the first look into the double layer power-mesh and Swarovski jewel gowns were swift and pain free. As the girls made their way back to their rails the strength of the applause was a clear reflection of Marios's immaculate vision.

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