Simone Rocha stepped up to another level with her A/W12 collection, taking her status as one-to-watch and casting it as must-see. Evident from the clothes, it was backed up by the sheer amount of press and buyers eager to get into the venue. A turnout not even the designer or PR expected.

Simple in form, her skill lies in the interplay of fabrics – finding their perfect yet odd, marriage. Wool collides with PVC, tweed with tulle. Silver leather is beyond the colour, it's mirrored and then there's the neat shirting that the designer has quickly become synonymous with, the base of her wardrobe.

Aside from Rocha's technical accomplishment, it's a less tangible quality that stays after experiencing this collection – the interplay of lightness, luminosity and visions of the ethereal.