Diesel Black Gold Womenswear A/W12

B-movies and iPads: science fiction meets technology in Sophia Kokosalaki's DBG show

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Sophia Kokosalaki has done a first at Diesel Black Gold – styling the collection from a different continent over Skype. On an iPad. The reason being necessity, not affectation though: Kokosalaki is pregnant and unable to fly. The London to NY commute, no sweat these days, really becomes a thing of awe and wonder when it's taken away.

Dazed called Sophia at her office in London the day before the show to talk about this season's collection, which features black, leather, leopard – all the good stuff. 

From the clothes to the music to the set, it's B-movie horror. The girls are quite dishevelled and there are a lot of leathers and treatments in the Black Gold Style

Dazed Digital: How is the collection looking this season?
Sophia Kokosalaki: Good! I've just been listening to the music from the show really loud, on my own planet! This season is based on B-movies, but very lightly, not literally – you know me. From the clothes, to the music to the set, it's B-movie horror. The girls are quite dishevelled and there are a lot of leathers and treatments in the Black Gold style. Plus we have a reversible denim and tweed combination.

DD: What are your favourite pieces?
Sophia Kokosalaki: It depends, it's really quite hard for me to choose – sometimes when I'm working to a look, a piece within the outfit will become a favourite. Of course, we are very based on separates and the mixing of them. This season I'm excited about new fabrics: we have croc printed leather, and pony that is not pony. You'll see a new silhouette for trousers and skirts, a new girl in fact, the Black Gold girl is updated and refreshed.

DD: It sounds like you've been really busy!
Sophia Kokosalaki: Yes. And you know actually I'm also trying to acknowledge the humour side of Diesel as a company – we all know Black Gold is very rock 'n' roll and tough, so I'm introducing this element subtly. There's a monster sweater, B-movie poster designs...

DD: So you're layering a more pop-culture philosophy?
Sophia Kokosalaki: Yes, exactly, there is more of a pop side!

DD: We're in London and it's the day before the show. Has it been difficult to co–ordinate everything?
Sophia Kokosalaki: It's something that has become possible with technology – they had me on an iPad on Skype constantly. Although during the fitting the machine was turned the wrong way at one point! I was like 'turn me round so I can see!' It's a bit like being the bad guy in James Bond – working remotely! It's something I never thought I would do but it's worked.

DD: What about the time difference?
Sophia Kokosalaki:
Well I was awake this morning going through make-up and hair at 3am – if you're not there you can't tell Guido and Pat McGrath to come back!

DD: Is it quite easy to divide yourself between your eponymous label and Black Gold?
Sophia Kokosalaki: Yes, very easy. Sometimes it's tricky if you have fittings in the same day but they are different sides of me. It's not about not having the ideas, the biggest issue is time. Sometimes I'll have ideas for the other label as a result of what I'm working on: they compliment each other. Also, Black Gold is very anchored to youth culture, street culture. It's essential for me to be in London to be aware first hand of all that's going on.

DD: You're also putting together the Sophia Kokosalaki collection. Will you do something in Paris this season?
Sophia Kokosalaki:
We'll have a presentation but not another catwalk show as I'm five months pregnant! We'll do something nice before coming back in October.

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