EXCLUSIVE: Marc by Marc Jacobs Womenswear A/W12

Ellie Grace Cumming speaks from behind the scenes, assisting menswear stylist Alister Mackie, Fashion Director of AnOther MAN

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Working on the Marc by Marc Jacobs show this season was a pleasure (as ever). Everything was so calm and organised backstage, we ran perfectly on time and it looked very polished. Guido and his team work on hair, with Mark Hampton frantically giving all the boys haircuts. And there is such a great team behind the show: Venetia Scott, Camille Bidault-Waddington, Susanne Deeken, Alister Mackie, Karl Aberg and Katie Hillier.

This season we had some brand new faces, take Anders who is a dance student was scouted two days before. Also boys I worked with in Paris at Lanvin like Reece and Simon and Jake, they all have such strong looks

The show is always at the same venue, The Armoury on 23rd and Lexington Avenue. The set was kept very graphic and minimal, just a varnished wooden catwalk laid down in a U shape. This accentuated the graphic feeling of the clothes with a blank canvas for the colour and silhouette. This season Marc by Marc Jacobs' design team looked at the 1980 Moscow Olympics as a starting point, with other references such as PiL giving an authentic post-punk attitude. The collections for boys and girls were so covetable, I could wear almost every look. The stripey mohair jumpers in the men's are a must have, as well as a boucle coat that came in grey and black. My dream winter coat! And I loved the grey dress with stripe detail.

"This season we started looking at Russian Constructivism, the graphic elements and colours – and then evolved from there," Susanne Deeken explains. "The girls had flat boots which gave them a good stomp and attitude. We used crinolines to exaggerate the silhouette making them very graphic. The fabrics were really elevated with jacquards, lame and felt."

Each boy is styled individually around what they would wear which is the ideology of the brand. The look is inspired by them. This season this brought a post punk edge to the show like their buzz cut hair

It's a really unique collection to work on. KCD do the production and casting which means everything is systematic and runs so smoothly. We spend time on casting first and then create looks – once both of those are finished we move onto fittings where each look is assigned to a model. They come in and we make it perfectly tailored to them.

"The casting for Marc by Marc Jacobs is always about finding guys with character. Boys who have their own personal style," says Alister Mackie. "They're always a take on the indie kid. This season we had some brand new faces, take Anders who is a dance student was scouted two days before. And some old friends like Yuri who has been in the campaign before. Also boys I worked with in Paris at Lanvin like Reece and Simon and Jake, they all have such strong looks. Each boy is styled individually around what they would wear which is the ideology of the brand. The look is inspired by them. This season this brought a post punk edge to the show like their buzz cut hair."

The great atmosphere is also fuelled by the most amazing hot citrus Ginger Tea from Balthazaar!

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