For a label that's focused on being categorically discreet, having witchy baubles by Pamela Love for Theyskens' Theory added a supernatural effect to the predominantly down-to-earth collection. Giant herkimer diamond and smokey quartz crystal necklaces were strung like new age pearls around the neck, or clipped like single dangling pendants from the ears.

We started thinking of references like maybe grandma was rich and you fucked up some old pearl necklace with broken crystals and added some spikes

"I wanted [Pamela] to play a little bit with elements like my friend Loulou de la Falaise," says Olivier Theyskens backstage. "She was doing all the YSL jewellery in the Yves Saint Laurent era, for decades, and passed away last year. I've thought about her so much; she would always put together such amazing choices of stones and twist it all just instinctively. I started working with Pamela on the theme of not only designing shapes but playing just with the elements and putting them together. We started thinking of references like maybe grandma was rich and you fucked up some old pearl necklace with broken crystals and added some spikes."

A girl with a crystal has a little extra power; she's loose enough for universal influence but focused enough to care. She's radiating positive energy but has a dark side to contend with, not to mention a glamorously rugged taste for jewels.