Copenhagen Fashion Week A/W12

The Danish capital impressed with shows from Gaia, Henrik Vibskov, Stine Goya and Soulland

Fashion Show
Gaia

Copenhagen Fashion week lasted for three days, with plenty of shows ranging from local superstar designer Henrik Vibskov to fresh design talent like Gaia, Stine Goya and menswear brand Soulland. Vibskov, who showcased his collection at Carlsberg's head office where he keeps his storage and archive, was inspired by musical instruments, visible on the catwalk as string details in the hats and sewn-in drums in the clothes. Andreas Emenius, who he collaborated with, helped him build the giant drum machine installation with influences from Henrik's own career as a drummer in Trentemøller. Apart from the more well-known designers, there were plenty of newcomers showing, such as Anne Sophie Madsen who used to work as a junior designer at Alexander Mcqueen, a connection that was obvious when looking at her handmade couture pieces.

Henrik Vibskov was inspired by musical instruments, from string details in the hats and sewn-in drums in the clothes

Gaia, who studied knitwear at Central Saint Martins but previously trained as a tailor, used her skills in some of the handmade one-offs that were inspired by 30s and 40s ski wear. She combined this with clear references to Russian Constructivism, an artistic and architectural philosophy that originates from the 1920s and inspired trends such as Bauhaus and the De Stijl movement. Silas Adler is the man behind street wear gone tailored brand Soulland and whose simple yet effective A/W12 collection was presented at the Copenhagen City Hall. His 'Imperial' collection boasted references to Russia before the Iron Curtain. He combined inspiration taken from the artistic work of Wassily Kandinsky, the Kazan Cathedral from St. Petersburg and used Russian prison tattoo's on jackets in a collaboration with the 'House of Billiam'. The prints were made by hand and also used in the knitwear combined with American propaganda and architectural pieces.

Goya believes that seduction is a mystery and we find ourselves constantly seduced by the arts, by culture and by fashion

The red-haired multi tasking designer Stine Goya, who has a very recognisable palette of mostly pastel colours or warm tones, said of her show; "I often find a painting where I like the colours and then I transfer them unto my collections". She is one of many who also graduated from Central Saint Martins some years ago and for A/W12, even though she's taken time off to look after her newborn baby, she managed to deliver a collection inspired by the art of seduction and the Garden of Eden. Goya believes that seduction is a mystery and we find ourselves constantly seduced by the arts, by culture and by fashion.

The Soulland collection, called 'Imperial', referenced Russia before the Iron Curtain, combining inspiration taken from the artistic work of Wassily Kandinsky, the Kazan Cathedral from St. Petersburg and used Russian prison tattoo's on jackets in a collaboration with the House of Billiam

Jewellery designer Sophie Bille Brahe, who knows Goye from London, is her constant collaboration alongside the stylist Rikke Wackerhaus whose sister Trine is behind the up and coming brand Wackerhaus. Trine's design is a quirky mix of luxurious materials and vivid colours that embraced the autumn tones of orange, gold, raspberry, bordeaux and ochre. She was inspired by the trees shifting colour, the seasonal transition and the Copenhagen residents dressed in preppy garments combined with vintage entertainment. Wackerhaus combined zigzagged checked patterns, woven shirts, silks and quilted appliques.

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