Givenchy Menswear A/W12

Riccardo Tisci moved his focus from prints to sharp tailoring in a collection inspired by the American Dream and Minotaurs

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Seven seasons in to his Givenchy rein and Riccardo Tisci is still on a high. The formula is found, the success is confirmed, the aesthetic is rooted... and it's still exciting! And although you know there will be printed T-shirts of some kind, more likely than not will there's be a dark and moody atmosphere lingering in the colours and patterns (last season's Bird of Paradise collection is the exception that confirms the rule) there's still plenty of room for creative maneuver, and no-one needs to tell Tisci that...

"I had two obsessions when growing up; going to America which is where the flag came from, and Minotaurs"

For next Winter, Tisci went back to the country of his obsessive dreams; America. Star-Spangled Banner flags became the natural symbol of the collection, found on T-shirts but also as more subtle black on black patterns on suit jackets and coats. A few early looks of plain suiting soon moved onto a more luxe sportswear approach through rugby shirts in striped colours - either red and black or blue and black - and light denim outfits, plus an array of printed T-shirts, some of them pursuing Tisci's other theme of the evening, the Minotaur. The silhouette was broken up by kilts, while the often black colour palette was distracted by bright red suits and brown leather fish scale jackets.

"We looked more at tailoring and the way we cut the clothes than prints this season"

All models came out with embellished crystal nose rings and ear studs which made them look weirdly elegant and scary at the same time. The crystal theme was also transferred onto T-shirts, featuring the gems in a circular pattern around the neck. One of the better pieces was the black leather coat with a wool pea coat on top, almost worn as a waistcoat. Many of the pieces, due to the red colours and uniform-like flag embellishment gave the collection a military-esque look, almost like they wore cavalry-inspired jackets. All in all, Riccardo Tisci pursued a theme close to his heart, ran it through the Givenchy machinery and ended up with a collection that made sense in every way possible.

Dazed Digital: How did you get started on this collection, what inspired you?
Riccardo Tisci:
It's all about the American Dream... I had two obsessions when growing up; going to America which is where the flag came from, and Minotaurs. First I took the sharpness and the composition of the stars, I've been obsessed with them all my career, and secondly I used the Minotaurs, who are half bulls and half human beings, for the prints.

DD: There's seems to be less prints this season...
Riccardo Tisci:
Well yeah, of course, I felt I did enough of that last season so I wanted to focus on something else... we looked more at tailoring and the way we cut the clothes than prints this season!

DD: What piece in the collection do you think sums it up?
Riccardo Tisci:
Look number 4, it's a printed T-shirt with an American house, two hands and my interpretation of the American flag... 

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