Julius Menswear A/W12

Ergonomic jumpsuits, slip-on army boots, and sleeveless leather capes dominated the Japanese designer's moody and dark show

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Julius remained its same dark self, but offered a pared down, on-the-go collection, composed of ergonomic jumpsuits, slip-on army boots, and sleeveless leather capes. There was a game of layering and contrasted widths: basketball-like baggy shorts were paired with a body conscious leather jacket and close-fitting robe; cargo trousers with heart-shaped pockets (the organ, not the symbol), gave an unexpected puffiness to the cropped, carrot-shaped silhouette, contrasted by a cinched leather jacket. A few screen prints appeared, on zipped frock coats and army pants – bringing a splash of greys onto the otherwise monochrome palette. And surprise! A totally white look – a paper-light flared coat sparkled in the jet-black runway.

Dazed Digital: What is the evolution since the past collection?
Julius: This is a lot more minimalist than in the past I feel. Minimalism is key to this collection.

DD: Has the Julius man changed too changed? What is he thinking these days?
Julius: The Julius man changes all the time – but like the show, this isn’t about a runway, but rather, an expression, a form of art. In his head… art.

DD: What about you? What are you thinking about these days?
Julius: I’m very calm, I try to remain zen – as you know things aren’t easy in Japan at the moment.

DD: So what message does your show carry for your country?
Julius: It’s time to be really Japanese!

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