The Autumn Winter Christian Lacroix collection, under the creative direction of Sacha Walckhoff, went for an old school approach last night. Showing just yards away from where the brand used to stage its legendary Haute Couture shows, the Lacroix cross brought out again to honour times past. On white shirts it came embroidered in check, on voluminous sweaters Walckhoff used badges and trinkets to get his symbolic message across. The style was suitably respectful, grey wool suits, shearling coats and duffels... but it wouldn't have been a show worth watching without a few surprises... red leather featured a few times, many coats and tops came out in lacquered fabrics and an excellently graphic star print covered a whole outfit plus a bag. As a nice touch and another homage to Lacroix himself, bicycle caps featured the name Arles, the designer's hometown, and Paris, the current location of the brand.
Dazed Digital: What was your starting point?
Sacha Walckhoff: The beginning of the collection was all about looking at the Buffalo era, the late 80s, early 90s. We mixed sportswear with a more urban look. I also wanted to add in all my memories of Lacroix, I wasn't afraid to do that, it was the first time that I felt that was really important to do that.
DD: What were those elements on the catwalk?
Sacha Walckhoff: The shirt and sweaters with the crosses on, it's very emblematic of the house, but I wanted to do it in a fun way with all that jewellery bits and badges forming crosses.
DD: What was the star all about, where did that print come from?
Sacha Walckhoff: The kaleidoscope print? I took a vintage Mexican blanket and played around with... in the end it looked like a Swedish Christmas star. I like the idea that something from Mexico can turn out looking Swedish, it's like with us... you are from somewhere but can go and join a tribe somewhere else which will totally change you!
DD: Do you have a favourite piece in the collection?
Sacha Walckhoff: The garments with crosses on them because I didn't put the name Lacroix on anything. Instead I put Arles, where Lacroix is from, on the caps that look like Tour de France hats. They also Paris which is where he went after Arles, so it's like a Tour de France in itself...